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My first introduction to feathers of a different kind came when I was five years old. My dad was a keen ornithologist who loved, collected and bred a variety of birds, from finches to parrots. The most precious bird in our care was a Double Yellow-headed Amazon parrot.
You will find many varieties of small parakeets and finches in our cages at Animaniacs, all of which make great pets.
For those of you looking for a companion or friend, we have a large variety of selected hand-reared parrots - African Greys, Amazons, Macaws - Lorikeets and various types of Cockatoos. These may be somewhat demanding of attention, but surely return it a hundredfold in love and cuddles.
To make the adjustment easier for your little one (and you), please try and use these simple tips for the next two weeks or so until it is fully adapted to its new surroundings. Remember that your bird is a baby and must learn many new things. Firstly we would like to thank you for choosing us as the seller of your little bundle of joy.
It gave us great pleasure and satisfaction to help produce your chosen Parrot, and we hope it brings you many, many years of pleasure, fun, and joy also. Please keep us informed of its progress, as we like to know how our birds are getting on, and if possible any pictures would be most welcomed, which will be placed on our website, in a special ' Customers Parrots' album Thank You!
Food - Your Parrot normal basic daily diet should consist of chopped fruits, vegetables and greens, mixed cooked pulses, seeds-Love bird Grass Parakeet mix, the brand we use is called, 'Country Wide'(available at Animaniacs) or pellets can be used,' Beak Appetite' buckets, (also available at Animaniacs) rice, pasta, root vegetables and grains, wholegrain bread, sprouted seed and millet spray. If you change the diet, do it gradually!!
Your Parrot may have not learned to associate different foods so be careful. Young Parrot have been known to starve to death because their diet was switched too quickly and they did not eat the new food. For the first week or so, place your bird's food on the bottom of the cage. Provide seed and/or pellets in small, dishes on the bottom. Also, be sure to give them as much millet as they want especially the first week. Then, you can gradually reduce the amount to a spray a couple of times a week. After he/she is seen eating out of the dishes regularly, you can move the rest of his food to small, dishes and then to the regular dishes provided with the cage. Avoid dishes with hoods on them; many Parrots will not stick their heads inside and can starve to death. It is not unusual for baby Parrot to consume large amounts of millet when they first go to a new home regardless of what they were fed by the breeder's. Going to a new environment is both stressful and overwhelming for a new baby although not always in a bad way.
They have a new cage, new people, new environment, new toys, new climate, new everything. They may be very curious and inquisitive, and like a child in a candy store, may not eat a wide variety of foods especially fresh foods or event their normal seed/pellet mix. It is very normal and new Parrot owners should always have lots of millet available when the baby comes home. Millet is a complex carbohydrate that also has protein and no fat. It is easily digested and provides quick energy for baby birds that need it to deal with the stress of the new situation. They should be allowed to eat as much as they want. Usually, after a week or so, they will start eating a greater variety although it make take several weeks or longer before they start eating fresh foods.
To encourage them to eat fresh foods, you should provide your Parrot with thawed frozen peas and corn in a small dish with some seeds sprinkled on the top. Once your Parrot starts playing and eating these foods, then you can start adding other fresh, more wholesome foods to the mix. Parrot does not need grit. They hull (shell) their seed and grind their food with their beaks as do all parrots so there is not need for grit. Grit also has been known to cause impaction of the intestines so it should be avoided. They should be provided with a cuttlebone, for calcium, and a mineral block for needed trace minerals. A selection of 'Aviplus' essential Vitamins and minerals have been given to Your Parrot throughout its development, and also to its breeding parents on a daily basis all through their life. There are 5 different products in total, and these are available, from us at Animaniacs. We consider them a minimal cost, considering they will add many extra healthy years to your bird's life span. There are 3, which are given in the water, and 1, which is sprinkled over soft food, and 1, which is added to pulses when they are soaking. 2 are given every day, 2 are given once a week, and 1 is used daily during the soaking of pulses or seed.
Cage & Perches - A cage can never be big enough for any Parrot, in fact being free outside their cage is the biggest cage you can give them, we advise to purchase the biggest cage you can make room for, within your budget if you have one. Please be careful to avoid old second hand cage which have been outdated with more advanced and safer finishing, and also remembering to ask why the cage is being sold on (some bird diseases can live up to 2 years in nooks and crannies of old cages, perches and feeding pots. Only vet nary disinfectants specially for avian use will kill many of them. Some cages are made with bars that are coated with brass or chrome finishes, these are toxic if birds peck and ingest the particles that come off over time, and often result in death.
If you are unsure about which cage is best you can talk it over with us, and you can also visit us to see the cages we supply at our shop.
Handling - Your Parrot has been hand-fed since 10 to 14 days of age, sometimes even younger, and socialized to a variety of household situations. However, unlike domesticated animals such as dogs and cat, Parrot are aware prey animals that you are a stranger and they must learn that you are not going to hurt them. They also are in a completely foreign environment with a new home, new cage, new toys, new people, new food, etc., so they are very cautious and can be very nervous for the first few weeks, and can sometimes nip out of fear. Your Parrot should be taken out daily and held over a couch or bed and allowed to jump off. This is how you should work with your Parrot on teaching "Step Ups" and 'ladders'. Let it jump off, pick it up, place it back on your finger and start over again. Praise and talk softly to your Parrot while perched on your finger. Do this whenever you first take the bird out. After a few minutes, the Parrot will stop jumping off. After a few days or so, it should be completely comfortable with you and should no longer jump off or try and get away. Stress - Remember your bird is a baby and it needs rest.
When you first bring it home, put it in its cage and let it get used to the new environment. If the bird was delivered or had to travel a distance from us, leave it in the cage the first day. On the second day, you can open the door and take it out for playtime. After about an hour, return it to its cage. It can then come out a few more times during the day. Do not continually play with it for hour after hour while it is very young. As it gets older, gradually its out of cage time can be increased. Your baby is used to cuddling up against his siblings at night. Make sure his cage is placed in a warm area and cover him at night. Do not expose him to drafts. If your baby appears lethargic, quiet, weak, cold or is unable to perch, immediately place the bird's cage on a heating pad or under a light covered with a towel. Try and warm him up to 85°- 88° and get him to an avian veterinarian. Many times heat will work wonders and in a few hours they are up and running around. Sometimes, the stress of the new home can be a little much. Toys and Playpens - Parrot love to play and swing, and should be given a lot of toys. Things that move such as swings and hanging toys are favourites. They also like things made from natural materials such as wood, leather and rawhide. Small items such as beads and bells are especially relished and played with for hours on end. Parrot can be taught to stay on playpens and baskets.
This will allow your pet more freedom as well as more time with you as it is more mobile and easy to move around. Water - Provide both a drinking fountain AND a small dish on the bottom of the cage. After you see him drinking from the tube regularly, you can remove the small dish. Thank you once again for choosing us as your breeder. If you are worried or have any problems, please don't hesitate to call us. Your Parrot has 24/7 help & advice with us for LIFE!
Thank you for choosing one of our baby parrots. On arrival home you may find your baby a little bit sulky, frightened, or unsettled, this is quite normal and may take a few days or so for them to adjust. we always advise to handle your baby from the very first day you get them home, rather than leaving her/him alone to settle in as some breeders may advise.
The first steps:
Set yourself a schedule for your baby and stick to it. Decide those times that your bird will be allowed out to play with you and your family, and abide to it. Most birds develop behaviour problems at a young age when they are played with extensively, and then left in the cage longer and longer as the newness wears off. If the bird is brought up with a schedule that will be consistent two or three years later, we have found that they are much happier.
Be rational, a half hour to an hour in the morning, and an hour or two in the evening after work or school is terrific. The most important thing however is to be consistent. Remember the best times to build a strong trusting relationship are those times that instinctively are most important to a flock of birds-breakfast & dinner.
Birds define social dominance by vertical placement. Never allow your bird above you or to be at the same height as your head. Try and discourage shoulder perching. Someone has to be in charge of the family and your bird instinctively recognizes that as long as he/she remains lower, you remain dominant.
Never show excitement to negative behaviour. Upset humans are exciting and entertaining to a bird and most will seek to recreate the same response by you if rewarded with it in the first place. A nip should be dealt with by a firm command and a look of disapproval. Shouting and returning the bird to its cage merely reinforces the behaviour.
Birds are monogamous intelligent creatures. If 'Bob' gets a parrot for himself but tires of the responsibility within a year and his wife takes over the feeding and cleaning 'Bob' will not have a pet in a short time- his wife will. If your parrot is to be a family pet, all members of the family must also participate in the responsibilities of day-to-day care so that strong bonding with one individual is discouraged. All the family is then treated as equal flock members as apposed to one single mate who is favoured.
Pet birds may show personality changes from time to time. This is often traced to stress in the house hold, situation changes in schedules, time of the year (moulting or breeding season) nutrition or disease. If behaviour does not quickly return to normal please feel free to contact us, or seek an avian vets advice, if you feel a clinical problem may be the cause.
Dander - (feather dust), Increased humidity and frequent baths (with a fine mist sprayer) whether your bird likes it or not. Greys and Senegal's come from Africa with more stable humidity than that in our home. Dry skin is itchy and irritated for one, most birds actually will learn to enjoy baths in time, being clean, and the social interaction of bath time with their families.3 drops of Lavender & Tea Tree Essential Oil in a mist sprayer is wonderful for plumage. Also a good air purifier will also benefit you and your bird.
We hope you have many years of fun filled pleasure with your bird, and would like you to know we are always just a phone call away should you need our help in any way. If you are having behaviour problems with your parrot, you can contact us or we can recommend a very good
Parrot psychologist by the name of Greg Glendel, you can find him online. He is very helpful, and will talk you through your problem personally. He has come highly recommended by other parrot owners we know.
Lovebirds,Cockatiels,Budgies, Lineolated Parakeets, Indian Ringnecks, conures etc...
To make the adjustment easier for your little one (and you), please try and use these simple tips for the next two weeks or so until it is fully adapted to its new surroundings. Remember that your bird is a baby and must learn many new things. Firstly I would like to thank you for choosing us as the breeder and rearer of your little bundle of joy. It has given us great pleasure and satisfaction to help produce your chosen Parakeet , and I hope it brings you many, many years of pleasure, fun, and joy also. Please keep us informed of its progress, as we like to know how our birds are getting on, and if possible any pictures would be most welcomed, which will be placed on our website, in a special ' Customers Parrots' album Thank You!
Food - Parakeets normal diet should consist of chopped fruits, vegetables and greens, seeds (Love bird Grass Parakeet mix) or pellets (for cockatiels),Pulses' Beak Appitete' buckets,(both available at Wildheart Pets) rice, pasta, root vegetables and grains, wholegrain bread, sprouted seed and millet spray. If you change the diet, do it gradually!!
Your Parakeet may have not learned to associate different foods so be careful. Young Parakeets have been known to starve to death because their diet was switched too quickly and they did not eat the new food. For the first week or so, place your bird's food on the bottom of the cage. Provide seed and/or pellets in small, dishes on the bottom. Also, be sure to give them as much millet as they want especially the first week. Then, you can gradually reduce the amount to a spray a couple of times a week. After he/she is seen eating out of the dishes regularly, you can move the rest of his food to small, dishes and then to the regular dishes provided with the cage. Avoid dishes with hoods on them; many Parakeets will not stick their heads inside and can starve to death. It is not unusual for baby Parakeets to consume large amounts of millet when they first go to a new home regardless of what they were fed by the breeder's.
Going to a new environment is both stressful and overwhelming for a new baby although not always in a bad way. They have a new cage, new people, new environment, new toys, new climate, new everything. They may be very curious and inquisitive, and like a child in a candy store, may not eat a wide variety of foods especially fresh foods or event their normal seed/pellet mix. It is very normal and new Parakeet owners should always have lots of millet available when the baby comes home. Millet is a complex carbohydrate that also has protein and no fat. It is easily digested and provides quick energy for baby birds that need it to deal with the stress of the new situation. They should be allowed to eat as much as they want. Usually, after a week or so, they will start eating a greater variety although it make take several weeks or longer before they start eating fresh foods. To encourage them to eat fresh foods, you should provide your Parakeet with thawed frozen peas and corn in a small dish with some seeds sprinkled on the top.
Once your Parakeet starts playing and eating these foods, then you can start adding other fresh, more wholesome foods to the mix, like mixed pulses.Parakeets do not need grit. They hull (shell) their seed and grind their food with their beaks as do all parrots so there is not need for grit. Grit also has been known to cause impaction of the intestines so it should be avoided. They should be provided with a cuttlebone, for calcium, and a mineral block for needed trace minerals. Your also advised to continue with the vitamin and minerals that have been given to your baby Parakeet all through its development, and also continuously through its parents life as breeding birds. There are 5 different products in all,4 which are given in their water, and 1 which is sprinkled over the soft food.2 are given daily, and 2 are given once a week.
Handling - Your Parakeet has been hand-fed since 10 to 14 days of age, sometimes even younger, and socialized to a variety of household situations. However, unlike domesticated animals such as dogs and cats, Parakeets are aware of prey animals and also that you are a stranger, and they must learn that you are not going to hurt them. They also are in a completely foreign environment with a new home, new cage, new toys, new people, new food, etc., so they are very cautious and can be very nervous for the first few weeks, and can sometimes nip out of fear. Your Parakeet should be taken out daily and held over a couch or bed and allowed to jump off. This is how you should work with your Parakeet on teaching "Step Ups" and 'ladders'. Let it jump off, pick it up, place it back on your finger and start over again. Praise and talk softly to your Parakeet while perched on your finger. Do this whenever you first take the bird out. After a few minutes, your Parakeet will stop jumping off. After a few days or so, it should be completely comfortable with you and should no longer jump off or try and get away.
Stress - Remember your bird is a baby and it needs rest. When you first bring it home, put it in its cage and let it get used to the new environment. If the bird was delivered or had to travel a distance from us, leave it in the cage the first day. On the second day, you can open the door and take it out for playtime. After about an hour, return it to its cage. It can then come out a few more times during the day. Do not continually play with it for hour after hour while it is very young. As it gets older, gradually its out of cage time can be increased. Your baby is used to cuddling up against his siblings at night. Make sure his cage is placed in a warm area and cover him at night. Do not expose him to drafts. If your baby appears lethargic, quiet, weak, cold or is unable to perch, immediately place the bird's cage on a heat pad or under a light covered with a towel. Try and warm him up to 85°- 88° and get him to an avian veterinarian. Many times heat will work wonders and in a few hours they are up and running around. Sometimes, the stress of the new home can be a little much.
Toys and Playpens - Parakeets love to play and swing, and should be given a lot of toys. Things that move such as swings and hanging toys are favourites. They also like things made from natural materials such as wood, leather and raw hide. Small items such as beads and bells are especially relished and played with for hours on end.Parakeets can be taught to stay on playpens and baskets. This will allow your pet more freedom as well as more time with you as it is more mobile and easy to move around.
Water - Provide both a drinking fountain and a small dish on the bottom of the cage. After you see him drinking from the tube regularly, you can remove the small dish. Thank you once again for choosing us as your breeder. If you are worried or have any problems, please don't hesitate to call us.
Your Parakeet has our 24/7 help & advice with us for LIFE! |
